The Difference Between Hair Masks and Conditioners

Happy Friday, everyone!

This week, we're highlighting some interesting questions about hair masks and conditioners asked by Formulate user Ayla:

If conditioners and hair masks both nourish and maintain your hair, what is the actual difference between them/how you should use them? Can I just use them interchangeably? Also, I feel like people talk all the time about leaving conditioners and hair masks in their hair overnight, even when they hadn't washed their hair before use. Does that actually do anything extra?

Thanks for writing, Ayla!

To answer your questions, we consulted hairstylist Sam Ashcroft. Sam works out of a salon based in Central London, and has a ton of experience working with individuals who suffer from damaged hair. We hope you find our below conversation helpful!

How would you define a hair mask?

Sam: A hair mask is a super-concentrated, rich formula. They are usually heavier than everyday conditioners, and are perfect for the night after heavy styling.

How would you define a conditioner?

Sam: A conditioner is a lighter formula that helps seal the cuticle and treat any problems, such as low protein in the hair or lack of moisture.

What are the differences in goals between these two products? What are the similarities?

Sam: A hair conditioner does what it says on the tin - it makes the strands soft, shiny, and more manageable. A hair mask goes further than that and deeply hydrates the hair strands with ingredients that go deeper into the hair's cuticle and perform a fantastic conditioning job.

What are the pro's and con's of each?

Sam: The pros of conditioners are that they don't take long, are relatively inexpensive and can make the hair more manageable. There are no real cons; they can be used every time you wash your hair.

The pros of masks are that they give the hair a deeper treatment and make you feel like you're pampering yourself. The cons are that they can be more expensive and are unsuitable if you're short on time.

How frequently should each product be used? Why?

Sam: The frequency of use depends on your hair. Chemically processed hair needs a little extra love, so you can use a mask every time you wash your hair. It shouldn't feel too heavy.

If your hair is natural and unprocessed, an everyday conditioner will be enough to make it feel soft and shiny. A mask can be used occasionally as a pampering treat or when the hair feels extra dry.

Give us your step by step instructions on how to use each product like a professional.

Sam: My recommendations are the same for both products. First, use the mask or conditioner on damp hair (not dry or soaking wet). This will help the ingredients penetrate deeper into the hair without getting diluted by too much water. Then work the product into the ends. If you have a comb on hand, comb the hair from the ends up to get an even coat throughout.

Can you use a hair mask instead of a conditioner, or vice versa?

Sam: If your hair is long or naturally dry, you can use a hair mask instead of a conditioner every time you shampoo. If your hair is damaged from colouring and/or styling, a mask will help repair it and, again, can be used every wash instead of a conditioner.

If your hair is fine or tends to get easily weighed down, use a mask once a month and stick to conditioner the rest of the time.

Should you use a hair mask or conditioner first?

Sam: Use a hair mask or a conditioner individually. There are no benefits to using both at the same time. Once you have finished washing your hair, a light leave-in or oil can help keep the hair hydrated until your next wash.

How long would you recommend each be left on the hair? Why?

Sam: Conditioners only need to be left in for 2-3 minutes. Masks should generally be left on for 5-10 mins, so they are best left for when you have extra time.

What happens if you apply conditioners or hair masks to dry hair? Do you get any benefits, or is it just a waste of the product?

Sam: Unfortunately, applying a mask or conditioner to dry hair does not give any benefits. The hair must be shampooed with hot water to open the cuticle and allow the product to penetrate the hair.

Are there any real benefits to leaving conditioners and hair masks on for longer than instructed, or do you get the full benefit from the product for leaving it on only as long as instructed on the bottle?

Sam: Leaving a mask or conditioner in the hair for longer than recommended can sometimes add extra softness, but it's generally unnecessary.

Do you always need to apply hair masks and conditioners to clean hair - what happens if you apply one or the other and leave it on for a bit before washing it out with shampoo? Do you get any benefits, or is it just a waste of the product?

Sam: Applying a conditioner or mask and shampooing afterwards will wash it out, and you will lose all the hydrating benefits. Always clean the hair first and then hydrate.

If your hair is curly or highlighted and you don't want to wash it daily, you can wet it and use a light conditioner to hydrate it in-between washes. Be sure to rinse it well so it doesn't feel waxy afterwards.

Any final wisdom on hair masks and conditioners?

Sam: Use a mask or conditioner before going out in the sun on holiday - it keeps the hair hydrated in the sunlight. Always rinse it out of the hair before going into the pool or ocean so the product doesn't affect other people or animals in the water.

With a hair mask, if you have the time once the mask is applied, take a hand towel and (very carefully!) pour boiling water onto it and wrap the towel. Wait a minute for it to cool slightly, then wrap the hair in the hot towel. The steam helps the product penetrate deeper into the hair.

Many thanks to Sam for his help in answering these questions!