PM Skincare Routines: Here's What You Need To Know

Formulate user Jessica Grace has a question regarding PM skincare routines:

Hi there. I feel like there's an overwhelming amount of advice out there about PM skincare. I get confused about what I actually need to do to help my skin. I don't actually want to do 18 different steps, but I don't mind going through a basic routine. Any advice?

Thanks for writing, Jessica Grace! Your confusion is totally understandable - it's hard to process all the skincare advice out there. You just need to know what's right for you! We spoke with several experts from the skincare community, and here is the PM skincare routine that they recommended.

Cleanse

At the very least, always wash your face before bed with a gentle cleanser. Doing so removes makeup and remnants of the outside world from your face, and prevents them from being sealed into your skin during your PM routine. If a single cleanse doesn't do the job, opt for double cleansing.

Quotes from the experts:

Tatyana Franklin, founder and Owner of Skin Rx-Pert:

In no way, shape, or form should you go to bed without first using a facial cleanser. Even if you don't put on any cosmetics, by the end of the day, your skin will have been subjected to a significant amount of environmental toxins, oil, and filth.

Dr. Alain Michon, Medical Director at the Ottawa Skin Clinic:

You never want to sleep with heavy makeup or built-up oils from the day on your face. Overnight, your skin cycles to repair and make more collagen, and any oils or bacteria left on your face will get stuck inside pores, most likely forming new blemishes.

Dr. Alpana Mohta; dermatologist and medical advisor for BetterGoods.org:

At night, you should start off with a double cleanse to remove all dirt, makeup, and impurities from the day. Use an oil-based cleanser first to break down makeup and other debris followed by a water-based cleanser for a more thorough clean.

Exfoliate

You don't need to exfoliate every night, as doing so may irritate sensitive skin. It's usually a good move to opt for a gentle exfoliant, rather than a harsh one. If you use a chemical exfoliant, be sure to apply a generous amount of sunscreen the following day, and reapply regularly throughout the day.

Quotes from the experts:

Dr. Enrizza P. Factor, dermatologist and researcher with myvitiligoteam.com:

Exfoliating in the evening can help to increase the efficiency of the skin cell turnover, resulting in a clearer complexion and fresher, healthier skin. This opens the way for moisturizing products to penetrate more deeply into the skin, which makes them more effective.

Dr. Michon:

Every once in a while, or a few times a week, depending on your skin type, mixing in an exfoliant to help do a deeper cleaning of your pores can be very beneficial. A gentle exfoliant containing salicylic acid or glycolic acid is an excellent starting point. I would not recommend exfoliating every night.

Ghanima Abdullah. cosmetologist at TheRightHairstyles.com:

Chemical exfoliants are usually alpha hydroxy acids. These make the skin more photosensitive, so it's good to use them at night and then also use a sunscreen during your AM routine. They can also be drying. Avoid this problem by using them at night then coating your face with a heavy moisturizer.

Apply Active Serums

Skincare serums provide concentrated doses of active ingredients to target specific skincare concerns. Different serums contain different ingredients. Pick out a skincare serum based on your skin's specific needs.

Quotes from the experts:

Dr. Mohta:

Follow up with a skincare active depending upon your skin's concern. For antiaging use, a 0.25%-1% retinol serum. For hyperpigmentation use a 10%-20% Azelaic acid serum. For dull skin use a 2-10% glycolic acid serum or 5%-10% lactic acid serum.

Dr. Michon:

Alpha Hydroxy Acid and Beta Hydroxy Acid products will help treat the problem areas if you have acne-prone skin. In addition, using retinol on nights you are not using AHA and BHA will promote skin cell turnover, improving the skin's overall appearance. Ingredients such as hyaluronic acid are great for skin hydration. I would not recommend using multiple active ingredients, such as retinol with BHA/AHAs, as they can create skin irritation.

Tatyana Franklin:

Resveratrol, an antioxidant discovered in grape skin and dark chocolate, is another beautiful addition I recommend for bedtime routines. It may help repair skin that has been exposed to the sun all day, and it can also stimulate our fibroblasts to produce more collagen as we sleep.

As the most scientifically proven anti-aging skincare component, retinol is my absolute favorite. However, people with sensitive skin may notice an increase in dryness during the winter months due to its potency and ability to stimulate greater cell turnover. Switching to a milder formulation or reducing use gradually is appropriate.

Moisturize

Moisturizers perform multiple duties: they seal in the ingredients from your active serums (and seal in extra actives of their own, if they are formulated with them), provide your skin with an extra layer of protection while you sleep, and hydrate your skin while you sleep. If your skin is particularly dry, you can layer with different moisturizers.

Quotes from the experts:

Carol Evanicky, owner of Kalologie Austin:

We also lose a lot of water in the skin as we sleep, so it's vital to go to bed with a layer of moisture on. Trans epidermal water loss happens as we sleep. Dehydrated skin is more likely to get sun damage, have sensitivities and even get stubborn acne and blackheads. Dry skin simply ages faster. Extra dry skin? Follow your moisturizer with an oil.

Tatyana Franklin:

You can never skip on a moisturizer when it comes to your nighttime skincare routine. Never skip on applying a night cream as it not only keeps your skin hydrated but also keeps it looking fresh and healthy. Even if you have oily skin, moisturizer is a must! If you don't like anything that's too greasy, swap your creams for gel-based moisturizers.

When layering moisturizers, remember to start with the lightest and work your way to the thickest at night if you need more moisture. With the exception of a face oil, which is often applied last as a final occlusive layer, all other skincare products should be used before applying makeup.

And if all that seems overwhelming, you can always simplify it

A full skincare routine every night is not realistic for everyone. Of the experts we spoke to, the consensus was that cleanser followed by moisturizer is absolutely essential. The other steps can be helpful for specific skincare concerns.

Quotes from the experts:

Dr. Michon:

Essentially, finding the right combination of products for your skin type will help catalyst the natural rejuvenation process that happens overnight. You always want to go to bed with a clean face and never leave your skin out to dry, so the minimum I recommend is investing in a good cleanser and moisturizer. For some skin types, this is all they need to maintain a supple and glowy complexion.